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12 Fashion Goals for 2014

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So one of my favorite bloggers posted recently about vintage resolutions and I rather loved the idea. I'm not a huge fan of the term resolutions, I prefer goals for some residual emotional reason or other. Regardless, I enjoy the concept of targeting fashion changes, and I like that most of these are SMART (I try to keep all my goals and tasks in life as SMART as possible). So I used this blog post as impetus to schedule everything on my 2014 calendar.

So I modeled my list on her design of one single fashion goal per month. It just seems more manageable that way. I'm also trying to plan when I will purge, when I will shop, and when I will undertake the more disagreeable tasks with rewards in mind ~ so I am more controlled in my spending.

Without further ado...

January ~ Mend and clean clothing
I've already had two zippers fixed and another one is in for replacement right now (I don't do zippers). But I have a stack of seams that need mending and a few other things I can do myself. I have scheduled a block of time at the office to just repair clothing, and another to comb through for things I need to take to the cleaners.

via FB

February ~ Wear items I don’t usually wear
I have a few items in my wardrobe that I tend to shy away from, I should force myself to wear them, decide why I don't, and fix the situation, or get rid of them.

March ~ Edit out and recycle items not being worn regularly
I'm moving this to March, although it should be at the beginning of the year, but I have a number of summer dresses that I need to consign to vintage stores and I think March is about when they start taking stuff for the hotter months. I should be better about letting go of vintage in particular, I hardly wear all the vintage I have, and many pieces don't fit right in the chest anymore. 


April ~ Research breast reduction
It really is time. I've always been comfortable with my body but I'm starting to get more and more miserable about the size of my chest, which will not stop growing (yes everything is fine, it's a British heritage thing). It's negatively impacting my lifestyle and ability to exercise, not to mention mental health. So it's time to come up with a list of local surgeons, price it out, start a savings account, and make an appointment for a consultation with my GP. I also need to find time in my 2015 schedule for (gulp) two months allowance recovery time.

Big Girl Perks

May ~ Minor shopping
As a reward for doing the closet editing and reduction research, I get a shopping jaunt, but can only buy stuff on my list of things that needs replacing.

June ~ Weed fashion blogs
I follow a number of fashion blogs for style inspiration but several of the bloggers have had lifestyle changes that no longer match my own, I should go through the process of eliminating them. 

July ~ Assess state of closet
Do a look-through and check for anything I am still not wearing or is stained or damaged beyond repair. Then make a list of things I need to replace. I should also put some focus only my vintage and steampunk items, some of which I love, keep around, but really don't wear. Why don't I wear them more?

via FB

August ~ Integrate vintage
I keep many of my vintage dresses separate from my everyday wear, I don't have the closet space to do otherwise. After July's assessment there is a possibility that some holes may be filled with durable vintage pieces, I should do another run through at this juncture to determine what pieces and what they might replace.

September ~ Wear scarves
I have a number of lighter small scarves that I really should play with more, learn to tie differently, and put in my hair. 25 different ways to wear a scarf.

Screen Cap Cold Comfort Farm

October ~ Wear and weed hats
I tend to wear smaller hats to events, and sun hats on hot days for walking, but otherwise I don't wear hats enough to justify the number I have. I must finally get rid of the ones I love but don't wear, I just don't have the space to keep things that I don't wear consistently.

November ~ Wear jewelry every day
I have so much amazing and interesting jewelry from my grandmother's turquoise chocker, to quirky industrial inspired art pieces, to my great grandfather's tie pin. But I get lazy about jewelry, often forgetting to wear anything. Time to change that.

Brooch and Earrings  early 19th century  Sotheby’s

12 December ~ Assess success/failures for next year's goals
Go back and look at this post to see how I did. Determine if I want to do it again, what worked and what didn't. Take a look at my spending habits, see if they dropped at all.

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Epic Tote Hunt Revisited

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(I posted this originally in September of 2011, and two years later, I'm still hunting. Sigh. Sometimes I am lured into almost finding it and then the quest continues . . .)

Periodically, I will go on an Epic Hunt, Fashionable Reader. These are shopping quests where I just keep searching, sometimes for years, for the perfect item. I can imagine Lord Akeldama might do something like this. Accept no substitutes! Generally, this occurs when I already have something (or several somethings) that is/are working out OK but I really want the ultimate perfect item. What can I say? I'm a consumer.

In recent memory . . .


The perfect motorcycle jacket. I wanted a bi-color (red and black) retro motocross style, that fit the Rack. After two years hunting I found mine, which looks very like the one above, in Exeter at the Real MaCoy's for 15 quid. I didn't get the red and black, and the zipper was missing its tag (I had it replaced entirely with a  YKK), but I still have and love this jacket. The white stripes continue down the back, giving it a skunk effect, but also improving visibility on the road. Do far three people have tried to, literally, buy it off my back.

Lux De Ville Sin City Kiss Lock Bag Patent Vinyl $80

The perfect red retro bag. Needed to be the right red for all my other accessories, big enough to hold a paperback, shiny, and cute. Took me only a month to find, but I did get it online, and I paid mint for it. I was desperate, which must be my excuse.


Men's style hunter boots (sometimes called dressage boots in the US) but in a woman's size and cut. Inspired by pretty much every hero of every BBC costume drama, I have wanted a pair of these boots for nearly fifteen years now. What I ended up with instead are these steampunk-ish Sam Edelmen's which I love.


In the end I found the hunters this last year in both leather and fake. I bought the fake but never wore them because I would wear the Edelmen instead.


Well, Fashionable Reader, the Epic Hunt continues!

I didn't even realize it until I was in the middle of it (that happens sometimes).

Tote, I may be looking for the impossible. I do have a substitute tote I've been traveling with but it's neither nylon nor leather, so it (like all the others) is beginning to shred and fall apart.

Tote must be . . .
  • Black
  • Look enough like a purse to pass as a purse for a "personal item" carry-on
  • Leather (or something equally cool & strong)
  • Zipper top (for security overseas)
  • Smaller front secure pocket (to hold passport and ticket)
  • Back zipper-bottom pocket, or handle strap (to slide over handle of rolling luggage)
  • Wide enough bottom not to tip over when put down
  • Or so floppy in folds away into nothingness
  • About 20" long by at least 10" deep 
  • Not tippy when set down!
Things I'd really like, but seem unlikely . . .
  • Retro touches
  • Large front slide pocket (to hold a magazine)
  • Single strap or strap hooks (doubles always fall off my shoulder) 
  • No flaps (flaps get in the way)
  • Light colored interior, so I can see inside
That's not too much to ask, is it?

Well I found one almost-perfect at Ross . . . but in dark brown. And I found this one on Amazon, had almost everything I wanted, but not all that pretty.


I bought it and then returned it because it was way too small for my needs.

I suppose I'm mostly having one of those moments when I notice fashion designers have gotten into a rut.
  • Luggage has to look luggagey. 
  • Totes have to have two straps. 
  • Pretty purses can't have any functional bells and whistles. 
  • Heaven forefend we attempt to combine style and practicality.
Oh, I see, I'm having an Alexia moment!

So what about you, Fashionable Reader, any Epic Hunts on at the moment?

Epic Hunt successes you'd like to brag about?


Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Then & Now ~ Sexy Black & Yellow Undergarments

Then & Now ~ Silver Embroidered

Then & Now ~ White Lace Girdle

Lust Objects ~ Deco in Black and White

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Loving deco these days and black and white is so classy. It also happens to be the color of my cat, Lilliput. And the color of my mom's new cat, Kody. So, in honor of Lilli, I give to you... deco in black and white.

Lilliput

Kody Murdock

 Now, not all of these objects are from the correct time period, it's more that they speak to me of the aesthetic.

1909-1911 Jean-Philippe Worth,   The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1910-1914  The Los Angeles County Museum of Art

1910 Bracelet  Christie’s

1913  Whitaker Auctions
1911-1912  Evening Dress  Jean-Philippe Worth, Nasjonalmuseet for Kunst, Arketektur, og Design

1919-1920  Musée Galliera de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

1925 Rock Crystal and Onyx Sautoir  Georges Fouquet  Christie’s

1920s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1930s  Nasjonalmuseet for Kunst, Arketkektur, og Design

1928  Thomas,  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1935 Brooch  Marsh & Co.  Bonham’s

1940s Sautoir  Boucheron  1stdibs.com
1965-1975 Estevez The Goldstein Museum of Design

And now some modern items influenced by deco.


LWren-Scott

Rachel Zoe teardrop earrings at shopbop.com

Diane von Furstenberg Diamond box clutch at shopbop.com

House of Harlow 14k Yellow Gold-Plated Black Leather Station Necklace $75
Helmut Lang

Nicholas Kirkwood sandals at nicholaskirkwood.com

Forever 21 bold emerald cut earrings at forever21.com

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Then & Now ~ Gold Gown

Then & Now ~ Grey Brocade


Lust Objects ~ Deco in Color

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I've been feeling Deco recently, Fashionable Reader, and while some of the bellow might not actually be dated to the right time period, they all have the deco feel to me.  They are also quite colorful. I tend to think of deco in terms of metallics and black and white, but these are far from that side of the aesthetic. Enjoy!

Woman in a Green Dress Sir Herbert James Gunn
1925  Christie’s
Earrings  Fred Leighton  1stdibs.com
1935 Bangle  Cartier  Sotheby’s
1920s  Bunka Gakuen Museum
Ruby Sautoir  1stdibs.com
1930s 1930s Bracelet  Sotheby’s


Rauwolf Shalimar clutch at barneys.com

Necklace  Christie’s

Ranjana Khan mirror drop earrings at charmandchain.com
1940s  Lang Antiques
1930s Clip Brooches  Christie’s
1920s Jabot Pin  1stdibs.com
1925  The Victoria & Albert Museum

"Thistle"  René Lalique, 1900  Christie’s
1940  Christie’s
1928 Pendant  René Boivin  Christie’s

Alexander McQueen graphic stained glass print De Manta clutch at alexandermcqueen.com

1925 Cartier  Christie’s

Alexander McQueen knuckle embroidered box clutch at net-a-porter.com

Aquarmarine, Emerald, and Diamond Earrings  Prince Dmitri  Christie’s

(By J'adore Cakes)

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

The Dress In Curtsies & Conspiracies ~ Robe à Transformation

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In Curtsies & Conspiracies Sophronia receives a Robe à Transformation at a key moment in the story. In the book the description is basically of this dress (1865), only I simplified and modified for the correct time period over 10 years earlier (1851).

Ballgown
1865 Robe à Transformation The Metropolitan Museum of Art1 copy

Visiting Dress

Walking Dress

 I love the idea of transformation outfits SO MUCH. It's thrifty and practical and appeals to my sense of efficiency. I suspect Sophronia feels the same way. So, for your edification, here are is a timeline of transformation dresses. The purpose of each version is my best guess based on style and custom of the day.

"You needed a breakfast outfit, something fancier for lunch, followed by the tea gown, and then the heavy artillery fro dinner that night. And if you were just away for the weekend, you tried not to wear the same outfit twice, which meant that for a simple three days in the country you could go through about fifteen different outfits."
~ Daniel Pool

Day Dress
1856 Robe à Transformation The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Day dresses are the simplest form of a dress meant for the late mornings and lounging about the house, shopping, and running errands, that sort of thing.

Dinner Gown
Dinner dresses have elaborate necklines and shorter (but not too short) sleeves. They might also have been worn to the opera or the theater.

Ball Gown
1858 Robe à Transormation The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Ball gowns have the lowest necklines and usually quite short sleeves, they can also usually have fancy hems.

Walking Dress
Walking dresses were slightly more covered up than visiting dresses, high necklines and slightly shorter hems (with the exception of 1870s and later promenade gowns).

Dinner Dress (probably mourning)
1861 Robe à Transformation   The Metropolitan Museum of Art
The sleeves on this one give me pause. They are long for a dinner dress (draping in food) but someone in mourning would not attend a dance so it can't be a ball gown. My guess is the modesty of mourning demanded risk at the plate.

Visiting Dress (which means it's a receiving dress)
Ladies in mourning did not pay calls, but they did receive close family and intimate friends. Because of its length this can't be a walking dress, indoor only and black velvet? Receiving is my best guess in the second year of mourning. (Receiving and visiting dresses would both be called visiting dresses, they serve the same purpose.)

Ball Gown
1864 Robe à Transformation   The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Color and style suggest this was for a younger lady.

Visiting or Walking Dress

Ball Gown
1865 Cream Robe à Transformation  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Visiting Dress
Because of the low neckline it could be a dinner dress for a married lady proud of her assets. But I think it was meant to be worn over a high necked long sleeved chemise for visiting instead.

Ball Gown
1866 Robe à Transformation  1866  Musée Galliera de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Promenade Version
Because of the non-removable train on the skirt, paired with long sleeves, the only possible explanation is a promenade gown. Possibly for a seaside resort or even the riviera, given that this is a French gown.

Ball Gown
1872 Robe à Transformation  Charles Fredrick Worth,  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Dinner Dress

Ball Gown
1888 Robe à transformation  Charles Fredrick Worth,  The Metropolitan Museum of Art
 Dinner Dress

Visiting Dress
1893-1895 Robe à Transformation  Charles Fredrick Worth,  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Dinner Dress

Dinner Dress or Ball Gown
1895 Robe à Transformation  Worth,  The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Presentation Gown
Presentation gowns were extremely elaborate, with trains, but modest coverage for presentation in honor of the gravitas of being seen at court.

Dinner Dress
1900 Robe à Transformation   The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Ball Gown
 Because of the elaborate lace and bead work yet comparative modesty of the cut of this dress, I'd say it is for an older married lady.

Dinner Dress
1902-1905 Robe à Transformation   The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Visiting Dress

The switch to Ensemble pieces after WW1...

1930 Ensemble  Jessie Franklin Turner  The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Midsummer Madness  Edward Molyneux, 1937  The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Then & Now ~ Old Gold Lace

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Then

1876 Afternoon Dress  Charles Fredrick Worth The Museum of the City of New York

 Now

megan-fox-2009-golden-globes-red-carpet

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Blush at a Crutrat Tea

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So, last year, Fashionable Reader, I was poking about a thrift store looking for a piece for a Halloween costume when I found this dress instead:


At first I thought it was homemade but there is a label reading L. Rothschild San Francisco. Etsy listings and the look of the label suggest this is vintage but while the cut and style scream 1950s I think it might be 1980s or later. The company is now listed as suspended but it incorporated in 1981, and most of the clothing associated with the label has a definite 80s vibe.

Not this one, however.

1950s via goosberrye tumblr

Anyway, the dress fit me well enough and you know I love sleeved day dresses with pleated skirts. I liked the interesting button detail down the front as well. I wore it to the second of the Crudrat teas:


I paired it with black accessories. (Sorry about the lighting, my office is awful back-lit.) I'm wearing it with oxfords (modern from Marshall's $10 on sale, similar), a black bow belt (similar $5), a black beaded cardy (from Ross ages ago), and a black velvet hat (vintage gift). For accessories I have a lace mustache necklace, which I love, but never does hang straight, and some vintage typewriter key earrings, which I practically live in.

The image that inspired this look:

1890s Evening Dress  Worth,  The Mint Museum
I sort of love blush pink and black together. And I know I have to be careful because the pink is so close to flesh tone on me. I don't want to look all naked and stuff. But I have grown to love it.

1955 A Kelvinator Kitchen via rigerwikerson tumblr

1954 Fashion for Good Housekeeping via theniftyfifties tumblr
Of all my current characters, Primrose (in the Custard Protocol series) is the most likely to have blush gowns in her wardrobe. Thus here is a glimpse into that very wardrobe.

1894 Evening Dress  Emile Pingat, The Museum of Fine Arts, Bosto

1894-1895 Evening Dress   The Mint Museum

1898  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1898 Evening Dress  Jean-Philippe Worth,  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1900 Ball Gown  Jean-Philippe Worth,  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1900s Evening Cape  Liberty & Co., The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1905-1907 Evening Dress  Jeanne Paquin, The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1906 Evening Shoes  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1908-1910  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Negligée  1908  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Ta ta for now!

Just look at those pleats! Divine.

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Then & Now ~ Beaded Black Gown

Book Outfits in Blue ~ German & French Covers of Soulless

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Today, Fashionable Reader, I present for you clothing chosen to match one of my foriegn covers.


This is the French pocket paperback issue of Soulless utilizing the German cover. I started out ambivalent about these covers but they have grown on me. The color pallet is by far the best feature.

Here's what Alexia might actually wear of an evening:

1875  The Philadelphia Museum of Art

Here's what a real corset looks like from the time period (OK a little earlier)

1860s  The Victoria & Albert Museum

Some some lovely stocking to go with:

1890 Stockings  1890s  The Metropolitan Museum of Artblue

Here's something to wear over it all:

1885-1889  Evening Cape  Emile Pingat, The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Muff  1860  Musée Galliera de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Here's something for winter visiting hours:

1880  The Los Angeles County Museum of Art
And here's something for Lord Akeldama to wear as he receives her call.

1800 French Court Suit, c. late 18th/early 19th century
He'd probably be deeply excited that they matched so well.

Some items in my own wardrobe I might wear to match this book:

Blue dress from J.C. Penny some 7 years ago, $40

Glass beaded necklace from Murano, Italy 1996

Lapis vintage 1950s necklace, gift

Matched earrings I found at a Thrift store

A favorite dress of mine, 1940's influenced, good stretch, $40

the original German cover

Some vintage and retro pieces I'd like to add to my wardrobe!

1920s  Timeless Vixen Vintage

Marni earrings via Pinterest
1940s  Timeless Vixen Vintage

Mawi earrings pictured via thisischic.com
Shoes  Roger Vivier for Dior, 1960  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Mad Man Season 6 Publicity Still, Joan

Sara Weinstock Lapis large Victorian earrings

Asos biker cape coat at asos.com

Irene Neuwirth earrings via harpersbazaar.com


Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Then & Now ~ Sexy Wine Undergarments


Incoming... Belts!

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I have decided, Fashionable Reader, to do a series of blog posts on belts.


I have mixed relationship with this accessory, since I have a huge Rack but a small waist, cinching in anything remotely baggy makes me look short and top heavy, like Dolly Parton. It's not good. But leaving things loose and suddenly I'm 50 lbs heavier with no waist at all. This is why you will mostly see me in fitted dresses with belts. (And this is why I love corsets.)

Baggy versus fitted versus corseted

This ambivalence, however, doesn't stop me for buying belts and being fascinated by them. I have a collection of about 25 ranging from waist clinchers to skinny hipster, leather to metal, some for the hips, some for the waist. With a 10 inch difference only elastic belts can do double duty. In my defense, I did use to work for a leather company that made belts.


That said, belts are an important part of Sophronia's wardrobe in particular. Which is odd as in the 1850s belts were not all the common. The 1950s on the other hand!

1950s sewing pattern illustrations via theniftyfifties tumblr

Sophronia, however, always has to hang things off of belts. So I often seek inspiration from later on in history like the 1870s or 1890s ~ the luxury of writing steampunk.

 Godeys 1872: July Belt Reticule & Oct 1872 Belt Parasol

So, anyway, this series will cover various different styles of belts.

Decorative Belt ~ 2013 Carolina Herrera

Wide Belt ~ 2013 Son Jung Wan via nymag.com
Matched Belt ~ 1908  The Victoria & Albert Museum
Sash Belt ~ 1910-1913 Evening Dress  Georges Doeuillet, The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Swiss Waist ~ 1900 via vivelareine tumblr
And for yout amusement I leave you with the infamous, bustling belt.

1872 Godeys Sept 1872 Belt Bow

1872 Godeys Sept 1872 Bow Belt Skirt in Action

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Then & Now ~ White & Black Gown

Then & Now ~ Scallop Edge

Two Months Without Buying Clothes?

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Yes indeed, Fashionable Reader, you read that title right. Two whole months! Without meaning too, (because I did bring home 2 leather jackets, summarily rejected, and then returned) I have spent nothing on clothes in 2014. I broke my fast this weekend with a black sun hat, because I was away, intended a hike, and I already freckle beyond acceptable parameters.

Sonoma Hat Co. Black Ribbon Sun Hat, collapsible

It's sort of more like buying sunscreen, right? Nevertheless, this made me go check and realize that yes indeed I haven't bought clothing this year. How bizarre for me. I guess I made two more clothing-related New Year's goals without meaning to...

via FB


1. To spend less on objects and more on experiences with people I love. This is part of my ongoing effort to free up time for others. As much as I relish my life as a writer, and I feel fortunate to have this profession, it has rather eaten me from the inside out since 2009. My career has been nurtured enough for now, and it is time for me to gather in the other parts of life that are important.

2. To not buy any tops at all, knowing that next year I'll most likely be getting a reduction. After all, what is the point in buying when I know it won't fit in a year or so? And since tops are more necessary than bottoms in a wardrobe, and I have plenty of bottoms, I just haven't bought anything.

 Hopeful Before & After: 1905-1907  The FIDM Museum; 1910  The Metropolitan Museum of Art


I did visit Target recently because my fashion spies reported in that they have a rainbow selection of skinny belts right now. I have a great love of the skinny belt. (Yes my belt series on this blog will continue soon.) But I had a careful list of the four I actually needed in my wardrobe (thank you StyleBook) and none of they ones they have were exactly right.

1872 Godeys Nov

However, if you are in the market, $15 will get you pretty much any color (except chocolate brown, emerald green, blush pink, and dove grey).

I walked out empty handed. You know, there a certain kind of power in that.

I wonder how long I can keep this non-spending habit up, especially with my trip to NY next week.

I am curious, amongst my fashionable readers, have any of you intentionally done a clothing fast? Unintentionally?

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Belts ~ It's What's for Your Waist - Part 1 Decorative

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Decorative belts, my dear Fashionable Reader, are not a new thing. Here is a brief historical overview from Sophronia's time to today...

We begin with the bow, always a popular choice.

Bodice  1865-1866  Musée Galliera de la Mode de la Ville de Pari

 How about one with a fringed bustle attachment?

1872  Godeys Aug 1872

Or something sparkly? Belt for lady, of black velvet, with jet ornament and chains in front.

1872 Godeys Sept 1872

A bit of everything?

1880  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Something for Primrose in the Custard Protocol series...

1895 Afternoon Dress  Whitaker Auction

After the turn of the century, decorative belts really had a bit of a revival.

1902  Augusta Auctions

via stylisharistocrat tumblr, Evening dress, House of Worth, c. 1902

1905-1908 Afternoon Dress  Jean-Philippe Worth,  The Metropolitan Museum of Art 

This one is fun.

1930 Belt  Cartier,  Sotheby’s

1940s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1990 Belt  Azzedine Alaïa, 1990s  1stdibs.com

And a few from the recent runways...

Herve Leger by Max Azria Fall 2013 & Josie Natori Fall 2013

2013 Vince Camuto 2" Deco Nappa Leather Inlay On Stretch On Linen Panel

Burberry Prorsum “English Rose” & Balmain RTW Spring 2014 via WWD on FB

2014 Alaia laser-cut leather belt at net-a-porter.com

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.
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